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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.